Thanks Greg, again I'm really happy with how it's going together.

I did some more work, got the tracks installed without a single issue. Test fit various internal layouts and what works best is the Clark board in the rear, speaker up front and a 1700mAh 7.2v battery wedged in between. It all fits perfectly, even with the big gun mount in the way. 

I did some more work on the front steering & suspension, and even went a LITTLE crazy (Im a engineer so.. we do that..) added my own leaf springs! It slightly pushes the wheels onto the ground and keeps them from rubbing on the fenders. Works perfect.

It look good Jordan! I hope to start mine this weekend.

Are you using metal or plastic tracks? I've got both.

awesome work

Plastic tracks. I occasionally hear them jumping off the sprocket, but it isn't consistent at all. Usually while turning very sharp. They pop right back into the sprocket and I've yet to lose a track. 

It's not very fast, probably about the same as some of our slowest tanks with reduced gears. 

I have a few ideas about how these vehicles can be used strategically in battle...

starting to look nice!

Derek,

You are using PzIII plastic tracks, right ? I have the Stuka zu Fuss version and would love to do what you have done but don't think I have the skill set. I did fit it with a set of metal FAMO tracks from Asiatam and it fits perfect. Maybe I will tried to just fit the Vs motor in and leave the front steering stock. The sucker won't turn but at least it will run !

Amazing work.

Mike.

Hey Mike, yea they're Panzer III/IV tracks (same thing). If the front end seems tough you can always set up some kind of dummy castor system, so the wheels just follow the direction of the vehicle. Everything else is just a matter of careful use of a file, hobby saw and knife.

-Jordan

Sorry Jordan....... It would be nice to have a who is who for Newbies here. Just one more question, which motor did you end up using or it doesn't matter ? I noticed that on the Vs Tank Page the motors are with the individual tanks and not in the common parts section.

The castor is a great idea. I might even try just putting the track motors in and run it and see what happens.

Mike.

I ordered the Tiger I gears. I choose them mostly because someone on RCU had actually measured theres and posted pictures. So I knew almost for sure what I was getting and how they'd fit. 

There's an introduction page somewhere, hehe, I think it hasn't been posted on in awhile, but if you find it say hello!!

Strato50 wrote:

 

There's an introduction page somewhere, hehe, I think it hasn't been posted on in awhile, but if you find it say hello!!

You can try any of these.  

https://can-amrctankclub.canadian-forum.com/t31-introduction-for-new-members-and-meet-the-club-members-area

or

https://can-amrctankclub.canadian-forum.com/t475-introductions

Video!

Did some painting... very quickly threw some acrylic mud on there, and gave it a nice dark black and brown was with plain water. 

Looks good Jordan!  

I'm assuming it will partaking in the next battleday.  

Great job Jordan you are  a master builder and painter, like to see it running in the field

Strato50 wrote:

I ordered the Tiger I gears. I choose them mostly because someone on RCU had actually measured theres and posted pictures. So I knew almost for sure what I was getting and how they'd fit. 

There's an introduction page somewhere, hehe, I think it hasn't been posted on in awhile, but if you find it say hello!!

Hey Jordan,

I got my Vs Tank Tiger gears today, and was wondering how you took the sprockets off. Was it brute force ? Did you have to destroy the hub ? Also, I haven't taken apart my half track yet, what do you have to trim off the motor set to fit it in ? Do I have to take the casing of the motor set off to trim ?

My Asiatam FAMO tracks seems to work with the sprockets as is. You mentioned something about them being non functioning, what do you mean by that ?

MikeC.

I didn't trim anything off the plastic gear case to get them to fit, they drop right in entirely as is. The trick is cutting away just the right amount of the half-track's hull for them to slip in snugly. That helps in holding them in place in case you need to adjust their position or while gluing them in more permanently. I cut out the hull to JUST about where the second anchor-point is where the road wheel side plates attach. That being where the middle screw that holds on those plates goes sideways into the hull. 

The sprockets & drive shafts are held in just by tightness, and they will come out with just hand force, but be very patient. I did some wiggling but took my time, they eventually slid right out. Same goes for the sprockets, they are only held on by pressure. 

If the FAMO tracks fit on that's awesome. I think I may have meant the stock rubber tracks. They wouldn't last long under power.

Sorry Jordan I wasn't being clear. Do you mean I can take the sprockets of the Vs tank motor set by brute force ? 

It looks like from the pics there is screws for the 251 sprockets........

Oh, yes the VStank sprockets AND drive shafts all come apart by brute force, neither should be destroyed. It doesn't quite FEEL like they'll come out, but they will. A small flathead screwdriver might help a little bit but you shouldn't need the force required to mar the plastic. 

On the other hand, the VEHICLE's sprockets are another story. They're held in also by friction but the 'drive shaft' has a diamond etch pattern stuck into the plastic. I tried everything from heating and pliers to get them out but I eventually just destroyed the vehicle-side plastic hub that holds them in. 

With this particular build all of that plastic gets cut away anyway, so hack away. Once you get the vehicle's hub detached, it too will split with a small screwdriver. Ive since glued mine back together but it was nice to be able to work on it in halves.

For that matter, the front truck wheels split too. That's a matter of a very small flathead or even finger pressure to separate.

Fantastic job mate..... love it.....

Hey Jordan,

Just start looking at my Sd.Kfz 251/1........ Was your sprocket/boggies/idler mount screwed to the side hull ? I can see at least one screw that I can get to near the sprocket and two more what looks like screw hole mounts behind the boggies but there is no way of getting to them unless you take the boggies off...... Which leads to my other question, did you try taking the boggies off the suspension arm at all ? If I have to do it to get to the mounting screws, do you know if they are screw on or just pushed in ?

Thanks !

Michael.

Hey Mike, a mix of good and bad news for you! I was talking to Stince about that very area at our last meet, and you can hear it from me, its a giant pain in the a**! 

The boggie wheels are indeed pushed in as far as I can tell, and the outside wheels actually pull off fairly easily and you can see that it is a simple pin that they rotate on. 

The hard part is REMOVING these push-in axles without damaging the points where they attach, I couldn't do it with pliers or vice grips, they wouldn't even budge. 

What I ended up doing was taking my large hobby saw and cutting the rear-most 4 screws (six in total) that hold the side panels on. There was no way I was going to be able to safely remove the road wheels to undo those screws. So I cut them! They are still in the hull! The screw heads are also still present. They aren't in the way of anything so I just left them.

I used a sharp flat-head screwdriver to break whatever MEK (plastic glue) that was also holding the side panels on and wedged my saw in between and patiently started cutting. Probably took me 10 minutes for both sides.



They're about 6-7 inches long, great for flush cuts in hard to reach places.

Thanks Jordan. Went out and got myself a set of those and the side came off in 2 mins. I always wanted a set but this is an excuse for it. 

I was thinking of actually drilling out the sprockets from behind rather than trying to wrestle with it from the outside since I have to create the opening anyway. 

Since mine has the open cab I will have to find some tarp to cover up the battery, electronics etc.

Thanks again and will let you know how I make out with this sucker.

Mike.

Inspired by Jordan's build, and will his great help and input, I managed to convert my Sdkfz 251/1 Stuka Zu Fuss to RC as well. Vs Tiger motors and gears, Asiatam FAMO metal tracks, Taigen 2.4Ghz MFU (for the moment just to cut down on cost). Working Bosch headlight and Front MG courtesy of Curtis.

Thanks again Jordan for your great build !
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Looks good Mike.

I so need to start mine.

Thanks Derek....... I cheated a bit, didn't put in the steering on the front wheels. I figure the tracks will push and turn anyway....... Also, my sprockets probably won't hold up if I run it on rough terrain as it is just epoxy to the drive shafts. If it comes off I will pour some resin, pull the drive shafts out and stick it into the sprockets until it is one piece then push them back into the motor/gear set.

The whole project was easier than I thought actually. Is yours the 251/22 as well ? If I had the 251/22 I would try to sneak in a servo recoil in there.........

That looks great Mike. What did you add paint wise? I know a lot of these 21st Century models came with different camo styles, so I can't tell what's added and what's 'stock'.

I need some camo netting or equivalent to cover up my insides. I have 2 big bright BLUE servos completely visible on the gun for traverse and elevation, they don't quite fit in  

The steering is something you can add on at any time, but for what it's worth I think it really completes the project. On harder surfaces it looks really neat to see the wheels pull it through a nice tight turn. It's the toughest thing to do, but once you get the front axles situated, it's not impossible. 

OH! I also drilled out & filed the divers windows, added a little depth.. .I still need to get some lights & combat capability for mine!