Super glue or cryanolatyes are great as long as their is no sheer strength required, pull forces are out of this world but it is weak when you slide things.
MEK or Testors type glues are nice but have limited strength, If you can put a bit of pressure on the bond as it sets and dries then it is stronger but get it cold and it loses some oomph, same as when it ages as it gets brittle. still strong but can be snapped.
I don't use rubber cement personally so can't comment, I never did like the smell.
5 min epoxy is a great glue but there is more than one type and you need to choose dry times etc. I suggest you test the epoxie before use as some of them are pretty caustic.
Always use the glues on bare clean material ( paints, pigments, dirt or anything in your joints will NOT give you a good part to part contact )
What you really need to do is choose the glue that is best for the material.
Decide what strength you need, what type of forces the glue will have to hold up against and finally investigate the material being glued. For most of what we do, model glue is good and so is super glue. What if you want to hold a metal part onto your surface? Then maybe JB weld or epoxie works best.
One note here is don't forget about product like Milliput or other 2 parts epoxies, not only does it make great zimmerit but it bonds very well and when mixed properly will bond parts together and hold's tightly. You can even sand and sculpt it so it makes for a wicked general purpose tool.
I bet I have 14 different glues in my shop from tape all the way to industrial metal bonders that are as strong as welds. Without a doubt though just the blue labeled testors and a 2 minute crack filling super glue get the majority of my work done.