For those of us who have Taigen lowers that use torsion bar suspension and Tamiya torsion bar lowers that are not using Tamiya components (aka Clark boards/Speakers/Smokers/etc...) mounting components on top of the floor is sometimes a Pita.

I personally cannot stand the Taigen "Mounting" plate. It's the cheap plastic and flimsy as hell. with only the 4 corners mounted to the lower hull. Every single one that I have removed from a tank has been warped or had a certain section of with bowing out of being a flat surface.
In my Taigen KV-1 I replaced that board with a stacked 1.5mm thick polystyrene plate that was glued together (3mm thickness total). After 1 season it was also warped to hell. So it came out and I made my 3D printed versions which have stood the test of time, but are super thick (4mm).

As most know I have a bit of an issue (obsession) with making the insides of a tank organized and tidy.

So I went and acquired several 1/16" thick aluminum sheets that have been trimmed 4"x 10" currently. I am going to be using them to replace the cheap plastic trays that are standard. I will use 12mm standoffs (M3 threaded through) for mounting to the hull.
I have a small shear that will allow me to trim these sheets to fit most torsion bar chassis' (example Taigen King Tiger uses a 4" x 9" plate).

When I fit the plate to the KT I am working on, I'll post some images. Then will come the KV-1, then the rest...

Cool idea. Does the 1/16" alum sheet flex at all ? Or because it is only 4"x 9" its not long enough to flex ?

It's much more rigid than the factory plastic version. Will add in at least 2 more standoffs (for 6 mounting points). So it may even reduce hull flex.

The offensive PoS factory tray with warping already... Tank is pretty much brand new....


M3x12 standoffs already screwed in from the outer hull side. The same four corners as the old screws, plus a 5th one in the centre.


New aluminum plate roughed in place.


Screws are loose fit in place. to do component arrangement.


Where things will roughly sit.

Initial Images Hammer999999999.

And Yes MikeC. This plate is WAY stiffer with next to no flex.

Very nice! I used a 2mm styrene base for the IS3. Hasn't had a chance to warp though.  
Looks like you have enuff TBU bases to cover the whole upper! Hits all around! Ha haa. 
Cheers

Looking good!

So I am very happy with the aluminum plate mounting system. 5x 3mm screws holding down the plate.


Layout completed. Speaker box created and installed with volume control. Front hull brace installed. TK-80 in elevated and spaced mounting tray.
Smoker located and velcro'd in place.


Power switch will be under the main deck hatch.

Left to do on Lower Hull....

1. Smoker plumbing
   
2. Smoker wiring
   
3. Power switch wiring & install, upper hull brace/bracket, body retention mount assembly.