As some of the guys at the last CanAm tank meet found out when I was showing off the very nice barrel, my latest project is the super rare Dicker Max (All of two of them built). I am horrible at taking pictures during my build but hopefully this time I have more than the usual to share. The spec is as follow:

- Dicker Max kit from Frank (Germany)
- Asiatam Pz IV metal lower with metal sprockets/boggies/tracks and stock metal gears from a Used bundle I purchase from a a fellow member on the UK forum
- Merit 1/18 88mm kit - Use to construct the interior of the 10.5 cm canon
- Clark Tk-22 but changed to Tk-35 because I couldn't source a smaller battery (like the one use in the Taigen Stug).
- Servo recoil similar to my Nashorn/Jackson.
- Misc metal parts as the kit doesn't not come with much

Starting with these:

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Ignored the two other barrels at the bottom, unless you are interested in the ML-20 152mm and the D-25T 122mm which Frank also sells and I purchased a the same time for my SU-152 and the JS-3 which has been using brass tubes as barrels up to now.......



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MikeC.

I am interested in how this one turns out, looks like it will be a good build.

Looking forward to this one Mike.  Don't forget some WIP pictures.  

i wish i could find a co-op/job so i could partake in all the scratch building of cool stuff.

Stince wrote:

Looking forward to this one Mike.  Don't forget some WIP pictures.  

Not too many again unfortunately. It is done and I am trying to find some of the pics I took........ But here is more the parts before the build.

Tk-35. As you can see EVERY plug on the board is the beloved super small Flash and IR plugs on the Tk-22 ....... Yipes ! I foresee lots of soldering.

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Two interesting thing about the Tk-35. First, it is basically a smaller version of the Tk-22, but with only 7A output to the motors rather than 20A. As it turn out it worked out quite nicely for me because when I plug the chassis into a Tk-22 it was running around the track like a Porsche. When I switch it to Tk-35 it is nice and calm and realistic even at max throttle. Second, the smoker function is not available by default. I guess there isn't that many 1/35 smokers around, but instead you can use servo for rotation. So for the Tk35 every turret function (Recoil, elevation and rotation) can be servo-ed. Alternatively, you can use the rotational servo function for search lights etc if you are already using the HL rotation motor.

It wasn't totally clear on the parts photo but here is the "magnificient" looking idler that is special to the Dicker Max. Had thoughts of not ordering it because of cost but at the end the uniqueness won out and it was indeed a gorgeous piece of hardware:

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More later. Dinner time.

MikeC.

Ok Mike i know this will be a great project when you are done it will look Awesome but what is this in the background ...hmmmmmm

Greg,

That picture I posted is from the guy I bought the lower from, and he also has this for sale which is what was on the picture I posted:

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Sorry you got all excited.......  :-) Here is the link in case you are interested:

https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=12849&p=113482#p113482

i was only excited cause i thought it was yours but it is still a newer cab on it, it has to look like from the 1940's for it to look right on the field

Back to the Dicker Max.........

Frank's kit is designed with the HL PzIV plastic lower hull in mind. In fact he even sells one on his webstore. However, being the metal freak that I am, I decided to use the old Asiatam metal lower which created a whole number of issues:

- Frank's kit needed the back plate cut down to the mount of the idlers. Easy task for 2mm plastic, not so easy for 5 mm metal plate.

- The interior tub didn't account for any additional screw/nut mount because the HL plastic hull does  not have any. For the Asiatam metal hull, the return rollers are bolted from the inside, and the idler mount is screwed and bolted from the side and the back plate.

- Frank's kit also replaces the front lower hull plate, but on the Asiatam lower, the front and back plate are also part of the bottom of the lower hull and cannot be removed without taking parts of the bottom away.

Anyway, I am the one that created all these problems, but I did managed to extend the existing front hull plate to mate with the upper, and left the back plate issue until I get to it later.

Here it is with the front part fixed to the lower hull and sprayed Cdn Tires Grey Primer:

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Here is the inside picture of the interior with everything in. Very tight fit. You can see the extended front hull piece, as well as the small footprint of the Tk-35

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Speaking of the Tk-35, this is my solution to the small connector mounts. I basically solder all the small connectors to their corresponding male JST equivalent so that all the Clark Tk-22 plugs can just plug directly into them. In case I need to swap out the motors, or the speakers etc, it will still be consistent with all my other Tk-22s and these converter plugs will just stay connected to the Tk-35 only.

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Frank's barrel are all recoil ready, which means that they are shipped with sliding mounting sleeves. Here is the interior picture of the barrel with the breech block, housing and the recuporator taken from the Merit 1/18 88 mm kit. 

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The servo is sitting at the bottom for spacing as I know I will need to mount it underneath to get it out of sight mostly. Since the 10.5 cm canon on the Dicker Max is an old design, I can use quite a bit of the parts from the 88mm Merit kit as it is the old Flak 36 as well. I know it won't be accurate but I just need something inside to make it look the part.

MikeC.

it looks Fantastic great job this is going to be amazing

It's going to be a quick driver, very nice!

Interesting to see how the TK35 handles a larger vehicle in the long run..

Also cool seeing more and more tank destroyers! Even I'm thinking of one!

Fantastic build looking forward to seeing more of it....  

Still waiting for the pioneer tool sets in the mail but the interior is done:

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Of course it is totally fake (Notice the Anti-Aircraft tracking/sync box from the 88mm Flak 36 on the left side !) but just needed something rather then the blunt end of the barrel......... The back plate is also completely new as I have to extend so that it will go over the Asiatam metal hull. The two back door is not operational.

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Notek light is functional and this would have been the biggest anti tank gun in the field until the JagdTiger 128mm gun.

MikeC.

Looks Great

Looks like it wants to tip over forward! Looks really cool.

Strato, it is just an optical illusion because it is sitting on a all black background. It is not that bad in real life thank god.

Beautiful Job so far Mike, can't wait to see the finish product.

Just one question, is there a better place for speaker or maybe 2 smaller ones?
Cause where it's at don't look like you'll get much sound there.

Curtis is convinced that I will need the Clark 6W amplifier for the Tk35 as well, but on spec it is still 3W output so in theory it should be the same. I did notice that it is more quiet than the Tk22 but I can't  remember if I had turn down the volume in between.

I could reposition stuff, and maybe mount the speaker to where the battery is located right now, drill some holes along the inside hull cavity. I could also try mounting it on top of the Tk-35 facing up, but again will have to drill holes on the inside cover.

When I test run it I will have to see how loud the sound is with the current positioning and go from there.

Mike take the speakers out of 2 taigen speaker boxes and put them in. Wired in series you will drop the resistance and increase the power so it should be plenty loud. 
I don't know what you want to do with the battery but I would stand it on its side and run it down one side of the tank.

Metal tools etc finally showed up and decided to leave it with the existing grey so here it is for now. Haven't thought about IR battle yet but might consider clipping a Hammerhead on top and leaving it as is.....

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Youtube video of the sound and recoil. I am sure it is pretty bad out in the battle field but seems okay in a small space for now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAM3zw1dgok

MikeC.

Great Build, Mike.   

Mike, this is a beast, where do you install battle system? 

Thanks Capp, Tom..... I am not too sure if it will be a battler yet as I am changing my strategy. Instead of bringing 4-5 tanks out every meet and hope one (or two) of them actually work 100%, I am going to just keep 2-3 tanks that are fully spec out (480s, proper gearsets and battle system etc). Just getting sick and tired on tanks not working on battle days.

Anyway, I usually use the Hammerhead which is an all in one (IR emitter, IR receiver and Hit Indicator LED) unit. I was thinking of just somehow clipping it on the top part of the covered  compartment. The other option would be to mount the IR emitter in the Driver's vision block, or put one coming out of the single periscope port on top of the covered compartment but then I still need to find a place for the receiver.

Probably the Hammerhead route.

MikeC.

Mike you build awesome looking & unique tank destroyers, this is going to be a monster

Thanks Jordan. Yeah a bit of an affliction for tank destroyers....... Something to do with big guns, heavy armour and the single purposeness of it all. I did install a Hammerhead on it and had a quick simulated battle with my Jackson (Surprise - Another tank destroyer but with a turret !) and all is good. Will definitely bring it out on our next meet.

MikeC.