Hello! I'm new to this forum and to RC tanks. So let me introduce my self, my name is Dan I'm only 12 so please excuse the grammar, punctuation, etc. I have a YouTube channel called "Dan10channel" (Horrible channel), and I've just dived into RC tanks so everything is new to me. I have always enjoyed tampering with RC's such as: Latrax Teton, Traxxas Summit and now an RC tank, and NO my parents do NOT help me with my repairs and modifying of RC'S, so yeah accidents do happen, they do provide me tools though. Moving on, due to the winter break (no school) I've had quite a lot of time to modify and play around with my RC's and now that I just got a HL Walker Bulldog Tank (I got it from Mato Mart, it's a promotion version) I really want to water proof it. So why did I start this topic? Well I just wanted people to share there tips and tricks on how to waterproof an RC tank, I have already gotten started on it, however I do have some questions.

Questions:
1. How do you prevent water from coming in through the motor/gearbox output drive shaft (Sorry I don't know exactly what it's called)

2. Do I have to waterproof my motor? If so, how can I waterproof the motor?


Photos:
1. This is my HL tank and my work bench, I got the work bench from my Grandpa (he has so many tools in his basement that it seems more like a miniature "Home Depot")


 
2. That's a close up on the hull of the tank

3. That's the RC tank, I did put some of my own accessories.

4. That's the commander, yes I painted it, and yeah it looks quite bad. (And yes I just realized the antenna is broken).

5. That's where the motor output driveshaft thing comes out (sorry I don't know what it's called)

6. And that's the drive shaft thing.

Well that's what I've done so far...
Anyways if you have any tips, tricks or suggestions for waterproofing a HL tank please reply, also if you can answer my questions that would be great. Thanks in advance!

For the most part the waterproofing is simple. You cover all openings from the outside. Easy to do if you make the battery and switches internally located or top mounted (instead of bottom hull mount like HL loves to do).
Magnetic discs on the hull connection points for closing in the lower screw holes (make sure to remove some material from the posts for clearance/flush hull fit).

The drive axles are the hardest part. The better you seal them, the more friction that is created and therefore more stress on the drive system.
so a couple points first.
Stiffen the hull and enhance the mounting for the motor/gearboxes. Use resin, plastic panels, epoxy, etc... The reason I say you need to make the gearboxes more rigid and the hull more rigid is to ensure minimal axle shaft flex. There is NO long term fool proof method to make a hull water proof because of the drive shaft holes. Hole = a leak path. The difference is to make it harder for water to enter.
You can usually do a couple things for shaft seals.
1. Make a close tolerance bushing. Still a leak path, but very tight fit and cannot handle "flex" well.
2. Larger opening, with an inner and outer retaining ring that captures an o-ring that "seals" the axle shaft. Needs to be lubricated to maintain less friction and thereby drive line wear (gears), but can manage some axle flex. Takes up a LOT of real estate, can really detract from looks if not done/laid out ahead of time.

3. Grease or other non-plastic eating, thick lubrication. Create a close tolerance with opening for any flex, fill with the thick lubricant. As long as lubricant is in place on shaft - water resistant. Messy and requires reapplication.

Most tanks will do fine running through a bit of water, but if you plan on going up tp the return rollers, you're gonna get the insides wet regardless as water will come in through the areas that the upper/lower hull meet.

Remember that even boats have a bilge pump or drain hole because water does get into them and needs to be removed at some point...

Jarlath wrote:

For the most part the waterproofing is simple. You cover all openings from the outside. Easy to do if you make the battery and switches internally located or top mounted (instead of bottom hull mount like HL loves to do).
Magnetic discs on the hull connection points for closing in the lower screw holes (make sure to remove some material from the posts for clearance/flush hull fit).

The drive axles are the hardest part. The better you seal them, the more friction that is created and therefore more stress on the drive system.
so a couple points first.
Stiffen the hull and enhance the mounting for the motor/gearboxes. Use resin, plastic panels, epoxy, etc... The reason I say you need to make the gearboxes more rigid and the hull more rigid is to ensure minimal axle shaft flex. There is NO long term fool proof method to make a hull water proof because of the drive shaft holes. Hole = a leak path. The difference is to make it harder for water to enter.
You can usually do a couple things for shaft seals.
1. Make a close tolerance bushing. Still a leak path, but very tight fit and cannot handle "flex" well.
2. Larger opening, with an inner and outer retaining ring that captures an o-ring that "seals" the axle shaft. Needs to be lubricated to maintain less friction and thereby drive line wear (gears), but can manage some axle flex. Takes up a LOT of real estate, can really detract from looks if not done/laid out ahead of time.

3. Grease or other non-plastic eating, thick lubrication. Create a close tolerance with opening for any flex, fill with the thick lubricant. As long as lubricant is in place on shaft - water resistant. Messy and requires reapplication.

Most tanks will do fine running through a bit of water, but if you plan on going up tp the return rollers, you're gonna get the insides wet regardless as water will come in through the areas that the upper/lower hull meet.

Remember that even boats have a bilge pump or drain hole because water does get into them and needs to be removed at some point...

Thanks for all the great information, it's really helpful. I plan to glue a plastic washer at the hole where the drive axle comes out to make the hole a bit smaller, then I plan to add an o-ring around the driveshaft to prevent a leak (it is at the hole where the drive axle comes out to prevent a leak), I also plan to cover it with "marine grease" to prevent friction and leaks, please let me know if you think this would work. Thanks again!

NEW PICS!
These are the latest pics for my current modification.




1. Here some of the stuff I got from Dollarama, sponge is for the motor, red and yellow tape is for the South Vietnamese Flag, and balloons for waterproofing electronics.

2. Here is the hull in it's current state.

3. Here is the upper body of the tank.

4.Here is the battery all waterproofed up.

5. Here is the speaker I waterproofed with 2 balloons and some duct tape.

6. Finally, this is the plastic bin I got, and I will be using the plastic from it to waterproof the smoke generator.

Those are the latest pictures, hope you like it.

NEW PICS!
These are the latest pics, for my current modification.


1. Here is a South Vietnamese flag I made out of some yellow and red tape, and I attached it onto an antenna.

2. I decided to put some silicone sealant to seal up the hole where the wires come out to prevent leaks.

3. Here is the silicone I used.

Those are the latest pics, hope you liked it!

Are you sure your only twelve years old ? Lol , keep up the good work

Thanks, I will keep up the good work...of course until school kicks in.

NEW PICS!
These are the latest pics, for my current modification.


1. Here is the finished hull.

2. Here is the upper hull that's finished.

3. And here is the RC tank all done and waterproofed, I'm still waiting for someone to respond on this forum: https://can-amrctankclub.canadian-forum.com/t1844-henglong-infrared-system-needed-asap#19049 so I can hopefully get an IR system.

Anyway those are the latest pics, hope you liked them.

It's a bit late but, here are some pics of it in the mud:

Hope you cleaned off all that mud after... That stuff dries into hard nasty stuff vs. tracks...

plan to glue a plastic washer at the hole where the drive axle comes out to make the hole a bit smaller, then I plan to add an o-ring around the driveshaft to prevent a leak (it is at the hole where the drive axle comes out to prevent a leak), I also plan to cover it with "marine grease" to prevent friction and leaks, please let me know if you think this would work.

Dan. You should install sealed bearing ( ID 8mm) for driveshaft. it will drive smoother and protect gearbox. guarranty no leak!

Ok, I'll try installing it. Thanks!

Oh, and yeah I washed of the mud.

At this point your Bulldog will be the only one to survive the river crossing at the planned Waterloo Garrison river. Way to think ahead.

Waterproof and being able to swim are two different things

knispel wrote:

At this point your Bulldog will be the only one to survive the river crossing at the planned Waterloo Garrison river. Way to think ahead.

I hope the water isn't too deep. Also, I actually didn't even know about this "Waterloo Garrison river" crossing, so I guess it's sort of a coincidence. Maybe I'll start converting it to a boat, lol.

this kids 12 and has better grammar then me :/   welcome   where u located?

Sorry for the delay in response. I doubt my grammar is better, thanks anyway. I am about a 20-30 min drive to the Kitchener RC tank battle area. Sorry not sure if I want to just post where I live on the internet.